Climbing Mount Damavand: Conquering the Highest Peak in Iran

Climbing Mount Damavand is a unique experience. Ascending the highest mountain in Iran and the Middle East, and the tallest volcano in Asia, is indescribable.

Where is Mount Damavand

Mount Damavand is part of the central Alborz Range, located south of the Caspian Sea and in the Amol County. Around 120 Km east of capital city of Tehran.

Routes to Ascend Damavand

The height of Mount Damavand is debated, with figures ranging from 5610 to 5671 meters. There are various routes to reach the summit.

Which is the Best Route

The southern route is the easiest, while the northern route is the most challenging. The western route is particularly hazardous due to frequent shadow and extreme cold, with a higher risk of falling rocks. The northeast route is a moderate choice, not too hard, dangerous, or easy. All routes have shelters that can be used if they have available capacity.

The duration of your climb depends significantly on your physical condition and chosen route. Typically, climbers spend one day reaching the shelter and another day to reach the summit.

Altitude Sickness

Altitude sickness is a real concern on Mount Damavand. Sleeping at an altitude above 4000 meters for a night usually helps acclimate your body for the ascent to the summit. Regardless of the route, all climbers gather at the peak.

What’s it Like at the Summit of Damavand

The summit of Mount Damavand is spacious with a strong smell of sulfur gases everywhere. The center of the summit is hollow, and people mostly move around this depression.

At the peak, you may see people so moved by the sight of Mount Damavand that they shed tears of joy and kiss the ground. It’s an extraordinary feeling that might only occur once in a lifetime.

For example, you’ll see Mount Azadkooh at 4400 meters seemingly shrinking below you, a sulfur cloud rising from the peak, massive glaciers unmatched anywhere in Iran, and a breathtaking view of everything below you.

In the past, a frozen sheep on the summit was an attraction, though it has been burned in recent years. Additionally, if you’re lucky, you might see large herds of wild goats or sheep living in the area.

Northeast Route

The northeast route, the longest path, is beautiful. This route starts from Nandel village and goes through the Takht-e Fereydoun shelter at 4400 meters. However, don’t expect much from this shelter due to its limited capacity; most climbers camp around it.

About 45 minutes to an hour before reaching this shelter, there’s a beautiful plain near a spring, an ideal spot for overnight camping. For better acclimatization, it’s advisable to stay at Takht-e Fereydoun, which has a spring a short walk away. The shelter was built in 1975 by the Technical College to honor two students who perished on Damavand.

Northern Route

Climbing Damavand from the northern route, the most difficult one, begins from Nandel village, through the Siyuleh and Dobisel glaciers on either side, and the Doll Glacier. This route is treacherous, and climbers often switch to the northeast route after reaching Takht-e Fereydoun shelter at 3800 meters.

Southern Route

The southern route, the easiest, starts from Polour and Gousfandsara. The shelter here, known as the Third Camp, is at 4200 meters with a 50-person capacity. It’s advisable to book in advance due to the shelter’s popularity. A spring near the shelter provides water for climbers.

Western Route

As mentioned, the western route is dangerous with a high risk of falling rocks. It’s best to choose a quiet time for climbing. This route is mostly in shadow and very cold. Despite these challenges, the western route is shorter and attracts many climbers.

History of Damavand

This iconic mountain, a symbol of endurance and resilience, was registered as Iran’s first natural national monument in 2002. Damavand has always fascinated Iranians and travelers.

In Ferdowsi’s Shahnameh, Damavand is where Fereydun imprisons Zahhak, the tyrant. Another notable story is that of Arash the Archer, who defines Iran’s border by shooting an arrow from Damavand, ultimately sacrificing his life for his country’s pride.

Important Tips for Climbing Damavand

Leave No Trash

Given the high traffic of climbers, the mountain has become polluted. Ensure you carry your trash back down to preserve the environment.

Water Availability

Water sources are scarce on Damavand. Carry enough water for the journey from the shelter to the summit.

Crowded Routes

The paths are usually busy, especially in August. Follow the crowd but be prepared for sudden weather changes that can obscure visibility.

Climb in Groups

Stay close to your group for safety. If someone gets altitude sickness, descend immediately.

Avoid Sulfur Rocks

Don’t touch or sit on the sulfur rocks at the summit as they are harmful to health.

Preparation

Study the different routes and their conditions before planning your climb. The best time to climb is in August, but always check the weather forecast in advance.

Damavand’s Volcanic Activity

There’s speculation about Mount Damavand’s volcanic activity. Its last eruption was about 7000 years ago, but global studies indicate it may erupt in the future. The mountain is considered semi-active due to sulfur gas emissions and hot springs.

Physical Preparation for Climbing Damavand

If you aspire to climb Damavand, start training now. Physical fitness and strong legs are crucial. Engage in serious exercise and get accustomed to hiking. Practice acclimatization by climbing peaks below 4000 meters and then higher ones like Sabalan and Alam-Kuh before attempting Damavand.

Essential Equipment for Climbing Damavand

Due to the high altitude, bring oxygen spray, warm clothes, a down jacket, suitable hiking boots, trekking poles, crampons, a sleeping bag, a tent, two water bottles, and snacks. Use sunscreen, a hat, and sunglasses to protect against intense sun exposure. The better prepared you are, the easier the climb will be, but avoid overburdening yourself with gear.

Should You Climb Damavand?

Many climbers hesitate to attempt Damavand. It’s natural to be daunted by the long and challenging journey, but climbing this peak is a significant challenge for those wanting to test their physical strength and willpower. With proper preparation, knowledge, and equipment, you can conquer Damavand.

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